Mas D’en Compte Priorat (Porrera) 2006 at Wolfe’s Wine Shoppe

One of the oldest grape-growing families in the Priorat, the Sangenis family had historically sold the entirety of their production to the local coop until 1995 when they formed a new company, Mas d’en Compte, to bottle wine under their own name. Now, young Joan Sangenis manages the estate and makes the wines and has converted the entire estate away from chemical pesticides and herbicides.

In a region where almost everyone has a few vines over 50 years old, the Sangenis family’s entire vineyard is practically this old, with several small parcels of 100+ year old vines of Grenache and Carignan. Also, they are one of the few holders of extremely old vine white Grenache, a varietal that many properties have ripped out. This old vine material means that yields are extremely low and concentration quite high.

50% garnacha, 40% carinena and 10% cabernet sauvignon) Bright ruby. Vibrant raspberry and cherry aromas are energized by blood orange and baking spices. Fresh red fruit flavors are complicated by an exotic lavender pastille quality and given lift by juicy acidity. An elegant, precise wine that finishes with excellent tangy cut and persistence. Nothing overdone here.  It was aged for 14 months in new French and American oak. It reveals a bouquet of toasty oak, pencil lead, lavender, spice box, and black cherry. Firm and structured on the palate, it is very tasty in a straightforward manner. It can be enjoyed over the next eight years.

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